Dirty, sprawling, fast, sexy. Thats Lyon. It has its beautiful parts – what better place to build a city than at the confluence of two of France’s most graceful rivers, the Rhône and the Saône – and its history stretches back to Roman times, but France’s second city is best loved for the here and now: for food, fashion and culture. From place St-Jean, with its huge, 16th-century Gothic cathedral and an astrological clock, take the funicular (6 rue de l’Antiquaille) to the landmark Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière, topped by twin turrets. Also in the old town is the Roman amphitheatre. Downtown, the grandiose place Bellecour, with its equestrian statue of Louis XIV, is the hub of smart Lyon, with large apartments and elegant shops.

food

Leon de Lyon (1 rue Pleney, closed Mon & Sun) is an institution Lyon Plage (85 quai Joseph Gillet), a hotel and spa, has a large brasserie with a great atmosphere and serving delicate, delicious dishes. For good cocktails and house DJs, visit the Bus Cafe (18 quai General Serrail, closed Sun), in a converted bus terminus.

where to stay

Chic Cour des Loges (2-8 rue du Boeuf, €230-€480) was created from four fully restored Renaissance buildings, decorated in ultra-contemporary style. Of note are its huge beds and great bar snacks. Libertel Beaux-Arts (73-75 rue du President Edouard Herriot, €123-€142) lives up to its name: many rooms were decorated by local artists. The College Hotel (5 place St Paul, €105-€135) is a fashionable new addition to Lyon’s hotel crop, built in an old school.